The Dance of the Pole Flyers, Los Voladores de Papantla

Remembering The Dance of the Pole Flyers

Los Voladores de Papantla
Performed in Cholula, Puebla, Mexico

Dozens of my middle school classmates scuttled around the sculptures during our summer visit to the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City while the staff tried to teach us about Mexico's pre-Columbian heritage.

"Shhh, be quiet," said one of the teachers, allowing the guide to continue explaining the importance of the museum's collection. His voice was calm, and his knowledge shone, as though he had come from the past to vividly describe the many cultures that inhabited the Mexican Territory at different times in history.

Enchanted by the size of the sculptures, I got separated from the group, and for a few minutes, all I could hear was a reverent silence. Soon, a mysterious drum and flute filled the gallery's emptiness, playing a melody I had never heard.

The hypnotic rhythm had me advancing toward it without realizing what I was doing. Suddenly I was outside the museum. The spell was interrupted to search for a familiar face, and there it was: the face of my handsome classmate Antonio. Also captured by the music and curiosity, he had wandered outside as well.

It felt like the drum was squeezing my heart when Antonio recognized me from the crowd and invited me to sit next to him. I arrived at his side just in time to watch the spectacle of "Los Voladores de Papantla" (the Papantla Flyers).

Los Voladores de Papantla is a ceremony practiced for years in certain areas of Mexico. It involves five people climbing a mighty 30-foot pole. One of the "Voladores" remains at the top of the pole, playing a flute and drum, while the others, attached to ropes at the top of the pole, spin around the pole, slowly descending until they reach the ground.

Each element of this ritual is a symbol. The four "voladores" or flyers represent the four cardinal directions (North, South, East, and West) and the four earth elements (earth, water, air, and fire). They rotate 13 times around the pole before landing, representing the 52 weeks of the year (13 times around the pole x 4 voladores = 52).

The performance takes about ten minutes, and the attire features feathers and hats. The acrobatic poses they adopt while in the air make them look like birds. The production attempts to recreate the Mayan mythology of creation, in which the main deity is a bird.

Though the tradition originated with several ancient Mexican tribes, it is now attributed to the Totonacs, who resided near the city of Papantla in the state of Veracruz, thus their name. The ceremony began around 450 years ago when there was a severe drought. It was created to appease the gods and bring rain to the dying crops. Traditionally, the tallest tree in the area was cut and mounted in the village. Young boys would perform the ceremony, much like how it's done today.

The ceremony has been performed for generations, and earned the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage designation in 2009. This recognition requires Mexico to make continuous efforts to preserve and promote this custom.

Many years later, I was in Cholula, a beautiful town just outside the city of Puebla, when I heard a flute and a drum inviting everyone in the city to witness the ritual.

This time, I wasn't looking for a familiar face under the spell of an unknown rhythm. My heart immediately recognized the sound, so I quickly grabbed my husband's hand and ran across the plaza, where the two of us found the best spot to watch the ceremony.

Sitting next to him, I was transported back to my youth, mesmerized by the flute, drum, and dancers flying above. This, along with the warm summer sun and Mexican candy on my face, made me feel like I was home. I was completely content.